FM antenna hack on a rented car

This Summer we spent 10 days driving around Greece in a rented car. Being high season I looked for cheaper alternatives to the big names. Using a local company (directly, not through a broker) I could save 20-30% and get a better deal on "options" like FDW, different drop off location, unlimited km.

 

Where is the catch? The car is not exactly new. We got a 7 years old Citroen C3 (we asked for it) with 75k km. Mechanically was OK, it even had cruise control and lane assist. No parking sensors and rear window wiper, though. Most important: it had an FM, MW, LW radio.

 

Too bad someone had hit a very low something and broke the antenna leaving an exposed PCB.

The result was that in FM we could pick whatever station was in line of sight. Greece is full of valleys and hills, so any station would last maybe 10 minutes max.

With a close inspection I noticed a pad with a hole on top of the board so we all started looking for a not-rusty wire: why not try a MacGyverism?

The exposed antenna fin PCB and my addition.

 

It is curious to note as in 2024 you don't find pieces of electric wire on the ground as it used to be (I used to carry 20 cm of hookup wire in my wallet and I should restore it). After 4 days of looking I spotted a venerable paper clip in a beach bar terrace.

In the hole it went and the FM band sprang to life. Well, at least several station could be heard vs. maximum one at any given time.

 

Mission completed.

Fairchild Multimeter Model 7050

I bought a Fairchild 7050 multimeter because it has slightly larger than usual Nixies. There was no indication of its state, but I could count the three tubes in the pictures. It looked a bit dirty as visibile in the picture below.

Picture by the seller.

When it arrived I tried powering it at half AC voltage, just in case, but nothing happened. There was no current draw as the power supply didn't sag a single Volt. As it was sold as a "low cost accurate 3-digit instrument" (quote from the manual), there is just one screw in the back keeping everything together. Also the AC cord is soldered to the board, there is no socket.

Once I could look inside I measured that the fuse was intact, so I moved to the ON/OFF switch and sure enough it did nothing: open in both positions. If everything else is OK, it will have to be replaced and shouldn't be too hard to find since it was a "low cost instrument" probably using very common parts.

I created a short across the switch and tried again the power-up sequence as before. At 120 Vac it wouldn't display anything, but there were no signs of smoke, overheating, smell, burns, exploded components, ... so we stepped to the nominal 220 Vac... whoa! It is working!

I did some tests and the readings agree with my other DVM's. Well, let's say they are in the ballpark but hardly within the 0.1% advertised in the manual. Thought there is no drift after the warm-up and nothing blew up after more than 60 minutes of doing something.

So, apart from cleaning, fixing the power switch and maybe trying to recalibrate it, this little beauty from the past should not present other challenges and is ready to go into service.